After I’d used up all the chicons Rich Collins had sent me, I couldn’t bring myself to throw their half-pound roots in the compost. The chicory cultivars preferred for blanching today are distinct from those preferred for coffee (‘Magdeburg’ is the usual coffee cultivar), but the chicon and coffee varieties are closely related, with thick, fleshy roots. So I had to try grinding and roasting my gift roots for chicory coffee.
Coffee blended with chicory became popular in Europe when the naval wars following the French Revolution drove up the price of pure bean brew. The taste—or, perhaps more accurately, tolerance—for coffee-chicory blends spread from France to the Creoles of New Orleans. New Orleans groceries have sold both coffee blended with chicory and ground chicory root on its own for as long as anyone remembers. But many natives say that chicory is tolerable at no more than 20 percent in a blend, and then only when the coffee is drunk with milk.
Chicory added to coffee was among the common adulterants that led to the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906. I wanted to try chicory not as as adulterant but all on its own.
As I scrubbed my chicory roots, the rootlets came away along with some gritty dirt. I tasted a bit of raw root; it was terribly bitter but at the same time weirdly sweet. Chicory’s sweetness comes from inulin, a soluble fiber that feeds “good” bacteria in the gut and is used medicinally to help with constipation and calcium absorption. (Warning: Inulin can cause flatulence.)
In ten minutes’ time, I sliced the six roots and ground them to bits in a small food processor. Then I spread the bits on large pans and put the pans in a convection oven set at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Within half an hour, the bits were browning. I turned the pans and began turning the chicory bits with a dough scraper every five to ten minutes.
After a little more than an hour and a half of cooking, the chicory was well and evenly browned. As it cooled in the pans, it smelled like caramel. I put a tablespoon of the chicory bits into a drip coffee maker and stored the rest in a jar. From three pounds of roots, I had three cups of roasted chicory bits.
Brewed with about six ounces of water, the chicory infusion came out just a little lighter than typical American coffee; a darker roast, of course, would have made a darker brew. The drink tasted sweet, but also very bitter, with none of coffee’s aroma. Cream would have improved the brew. Roasted barley might have improved it even more. But after a few sips my husband and I simply abandoned the cup. The stuff was just too bitter.
The next day I tried again, using a tablespoon of chicory bits not in the coffee maker but in a wire basket meant for infusing tea. After two minutes of steeping with water just off the boil, the brew was as dark as most coffee and, again, very bitter. I let the chicory steep for another minute, though, and now the brew was sweeter. I had extracted more inulin, and its sweetness helped to balance the bitterness. I was able to drink half the cup. I guessed that brewed chicory might most resemble coffee to people who routinely take their coffee with sugar.
The bitterness of chicory comes from other components, called sesquiterpene lactones (lactucin, lactupicrin, and 8-deoxylactucin). These substances, like inulin, are extracted by steeping chicory root in water. Although lactucin and its sister chemicals have been little studied, various scientists have found that they discourage insects from feeding on chicory, fight malarial infection, and, in mice, relieve pain and act as a sedative.
The last of these properties—the sedative one—might be a key to chicory’s long history as a coffee additive. Not only does roasted chicory root match or exceed coffee in bitterness and balance that bitterness with natural sweetness, but chicory provides a downer drug to counteract the stimulant caffeine.
For several hours after drinking my half cup of chicory brew, I felt sleepy, sluggish, and stupid. The jar of roasted chicory root sits on my pantry shelf waiting for someone else to try it. Me, I’m sticking with unadulterated coffee.
14 thoughts on “Homemade Chicory Coffee”
I admire your willingness to try anything.- Mary Ann
Great post Linda, thanks for all the good information. I love that you are sticking with unadulterated coffee…I can’t even tolerate Broccoli Rabbi!
Is this the same chicory with the pretty sky-blue flowers that grows wild in roadside ditches? I remember when the price of coffee soared – in the ’70s. My parents switched from Folgers to Sunrise, which I think was laced heavily with chicory.
It’s the same species, and you could use wild chicory to make homemade chicory coffee. But commercial growers use a cultivar with a much thicker root.
I’ve just watched a 1979 ad for Sunrise coffee on YouTube. Interestingly, this instant coffee-chicory blend was touted not for having less caffeine but for being less bitter than pure coffee.
Two non-instant coffee-chicory blends still available are produced by Community Coffee and Cafe du Monde, both Louisiana companies. Just the other day I saw Cafe du Monde chicory-coffee in a Vietnamese market in Salem.
How funny this is, just today I was contemplating digging up a couple wild chicory to try the root and leaves. Also, I really like the flowers and wanted to replant where I want them…Thanks for the info.
Linda — where can I get whole chicory root?
Dave, you can buy seeds and grow your own chicory, or you can find wild plants and dig them up by the root. Wild chicory is in bloom now in a patch a few miles from here; in areas with lighter soils chicory is a common weed, lining roadsides. Its roots are much thinner than those of cultivars grown for Belgian endive or for adding to coffee.
Thanks for that update…where is “a few miles from here”??
I’m in suburban Chicago!
Dave, “a few miles from here” is Millersburg, Oregon. But I just googled “chicory Illinois,” and up came this link: http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/weeds/plants/chicory.htm.
Thanks…Very nice…I’d really like to find the root.
You’ve pointed me in the right direction.
Reblogged this on The Head Massage Blog and commented:
As a communist era `survivor`, my memories about chicory are somewhat unpleasant. The `party` made us drink bad chicory coffee, with or without any traces of real coffee in it. The point is we hated that stuff. I am now reconsidering my position, partly because of the health benefits of chicory, and partly because chicory coffee can be really tasty if prepared properly.
I’ve foraged wild chicory and the taste is amazing: chocolaty, malty, nutty, roasty, and yes, a little bitter. I love it with a touch of molasses and a little cream.
I’m surprised yours was so bad. Maybe because of the age, or because it was cultivated? Maybe it needed a darker roast? I also just take the foamy outside and leave the woody inside. Then I grind it into powder and mix it into hot water like instant coffee. Maybe that gives it more inulin…
I highly recommend you try it again with wild chicory and see if it’s different, because it’s so delicious!
Thanks for letting me know, Fresh Hell. If I come upon wild chicory, I’ll pull up some roots and give them a try. (Chicory is an uncommon plant in my area, although domestic varieties are coming up as weeds in my garden.)