Here’s an old gardener’s springtime favorite that you won’t find in an ordinary supermarket. As tender as butter lettuce, this lobed-leaf variety stands up better to heat and so can thrive into early summer without turning bitter. We’re eating it every day, sometimes twice a day, knowing that if really hot weather ever comes this year we’ll eat no more lettuce until fall.
Dress a bowl of this lettuce lightly, with a dash of vinegar, a couple of dashes of oil, and a little salt and pepper. A bit of minced fresh tarragon is nice, too.